Winter Sewing Plans 2022

I finally got used to writing 2022, it usually takes me about two weeks or so. So now that you know my sewing goals for the year lets talk about what I have planned for the winter season.

Sweaters - I could use a few more sweaters in my wardrobe, and my daughter can use a couple of them too. Plus it is cold, we are in deep winter in the midwest.. snow and high of zeros. I ordered this fabric from Minerva. It is a cable knit sweater fabric in Grape and Wine. I had made Sew House Seven Pattern (printed pattern) that is now discontinued but perhaps you can still find it online if you are “itching” to get the exact same pattern. It is Simplicity K8529 , it is a design by Sew House Seven. It is a classic style sweater. Love the neckline because I don’t particular care for anything that feels like its chocking me so I liked this style.

However, I know that I wanted something slightly different so I’m using Sew House Seven’s Toaster Sweater. There are two views to this pattern, version 2 is what I used for my pattern K8529 sweater but the only difference it has a raglan sleeves version for version 1, and that’s the one I will use. It is a great pattern, super easy and quick to make and I know that with 1.5 to 1.8 meters (not yards!! meters) I can make her a sweater.

Dress and Jacket Ensemble - I’ll be using Cynthia Rowley’s S2443, it is also discontinued. I figured after all these years I better start using some of those patterns that I got in the pattern stash. The dress and jacket will be perfect for spring or I can wear the jacket with another top and bottom. I went ahead and ordered the Twill Sahara Stretch Twill Rayon (which I’m afraid to say is now no longer offered as I found some imperfections in the fabric and fabric.com pulled it from their catalogue, but there are a ton of other amazing Twill or even Gabardine fabrics you can use) and a Ponte De Roma fabric for this project. The twill is a stretch woven and I ordered a tad extra in case I want to increase the length of the sleeves or the length of the bodice on the jacket. I need to find a new fabric for the jacket.

Jeans - I’m using the Closet Case Ginger Jeans pattern for this. The pattern calls for a stretch denim so decided to use a 9.5 ounce stretch denim in blue. I’m not so worried about sewing them, let’s just hope my machine doesn’t give up on me, I got plenty of jean sewing needles ready to go. I just know it will be challenging to fit them. I’ve had a few of you mention the Dawn Jeans from Megan Nielsen and its on the list to try, but I want to get the pattern first before I go off buying any fabric for it, and of course see how the Ginger Jeans fitting go.

I’m also using a brand new book called “Fit and Sew Custom Jeans” by Helen Bartley as a reference guide as to a few of the adjustments I need to make along the way.

Sew Along Pattern - Lastly, I owe you all a sew along and I haven’t forgotten about it. I’m using McCalls M6696, a few of you have asked about it. So I think it’s time to get the show on the road. I’ll be using a stretch lightweight denim fabric that I got from Melanated Fabrics about a year ago. The fabric is now sold out but you could also use a chambray, poplin or a linen. I’ll be doing view D.

I also have been looking to make this ensemble for quite some time and I believe the fabric is now long sold out. it is an Indigo Blue Charmeuse I got at Joann’s. The fabric is absolutely beautiful and I’m hoping to make a bias cut skirt using M7931. If you have ever wanted to start getting into bias cut garments, Mimi G did a great sew along for this pattern, and its a great way to get your “feet wet” with sewing on the bias. I’m going to pair it with New Look 6471. Love this pattern, its one of my favorites from New Look and I’ve made it numerous times with different fabrics. it can be a simple short sleeve top or a long sleeve with a pussy bow. The bow pattern piece is cut on the bias, so that’s a fun little detail. One of the things I love the most about this pattern is that the cuffs on all the long sleeves have a cuff band vs. one of those darn elasticated finishes. Let’s just say I do an eye roll every single time. Whatever happened to cutting a short pattern piece on the bias so the finish looks so much better than those elasticated finishes. New Look 6471 is now out of print, but as with all those out of print patterns you can get them on Etsy.

When I look at the list, it doesn’t seem like a lot but like I mentioned in first video of 2022, I’m trying not to do more than I can comfortably do while also juggling all the other stuff. The stuff that I like to call “Kids, Pets and Life”.

So tell me… What are your winter sewing plans?

My Fringe Dress - Chalk and Notch

One of my goals for 2022 is to make more indie patterns. There are some really good ones out there and I have been avoiding them for some time. Mostly because after being spoiled with spending $2 to $6 for a printed tissue pattern its a little bit of a sticker shock to pay $10 to $18 for a pdf pattern and then have to print it, glue it all together and then cut it to size…. JUST so I can start sewing. Needless to say, I have been avoiding them.

I got the Fringe dress as a free download for testing out the Joy Jacket Pattern from Chalk and Notch. I have to say I have been quite impressed with their patterns and I must say, the Fringe Dress is quite the clever pattern. Its perfect for a confident beginner, and if you don’t have a serger aka. overlocker its absolutely perfect.

I initially cut a size 20 and worked on view A the dress. However, based on the finished garment measurements recommendations after making the dress I realized it was a bit too long and a tad too large on me. Chalk and Notch patterns are drafted for a person who is 5’-7” and I’m 5’-5” so… I had to take some length off the bodice. But looking at my first dress I couldn’t quite figure it out until I sent a picture to an instagram friend and together we figured out what needed to change. Overall I LOVED the Fringe Dress and I will make it again, most likely in a linen.

But my first go around using the fabric I selected was very frustrating. I purchased the fabric from Melanated Fabrics about 8 months ago. They were kind enough to send me swatches of two fabrics and I loved this one. It is now sold out, but available at Fabrics.com in a Teal Blue and the manufacturer Telio describes it as a 100% Polyester fabric. It’s soft, has a beautiful drape which was what sealed the deal on me getting it, the color is gorgeous… and that’s were all the happiness about this fabric ends! It frayed like crazy. Let me say that again. I blinked. Boom! It frayed! I couldn’t get a crisp seam after I pressed it (which drove me absolutely bananas!) and the worst offending part about this fabric…. it went off grain the moment I moved it after cutting it. So if you see some extra gray hairs on my video about the Chalk and Notch dress it was because of my fabric choice.

The Fringe Dress - Chalk & Notch

With all that being said, the Fringe Dress is what I like to call a clever pattern… I’ve seen a few others but only a handful of patterns that I can say “oh that’s good design right there”. The seams for the facing and sleeves are “encased” so you don’t see them. That is pretty nice if you don’t have a serger!

Now that I knew how to deal with the diva fabric I made some changes. I cut a size 18 for the bodice, I also took out 1/2” from the length of the bodice and the back pattern pieces along with the facing pieces. I eliminated the tab pieces for the sleeve because I picked the shorter sleeves and this fabric was not playing ball when it came time to turn over the tabs, so those had to go. There is also a tie for the dress, yeah that wasn’t going to happen either with this fabric so that had to be vetoed too.

I initially didn’t interface the area where the facings would be sewn in, but after realizing that my fabric was going to stretch by just looking at it and stay stitching, I decided that maybe, MAYBE after all I was going to add that interfacing in there after all. I also decided to cut on my gathers for the skirt pieces considerably and I cut a size 14 for the skirt, which helped a lot. I used French seams for the skirt pieces since I couldn’t get a crisp seam and the fabric frayed so much I had to encase these seams too.

I’m much happier with the end result and the dress is beautiful. I will be wearing it come summer with a pair of sandals.

Even as the fabric was challenging some times you have to cut each piece one by one and that’s what I had to do with this fabric. So if you love the blue that I linked above buyers beware… this fabric is an absolute diva but in the end it’s worth it. I’m glad I got it, challenging fabrics only make you better.

What’s Next for 2022?

Took a little break from making videos to spend the last weeks of 2021 with my family and focusing on spending time with them before the rat race starts of work, school and YouTube video making starts yet again. In between all the baking, cooking, wrapping four presents, watching movies, walking and sewing… I was able to finish my flannel button down shirt using Butterick B6841, this is my second time using this pattern. It runs large but its your classic button down shirt. I used a Robert Kaufmann Flannel, the fabric I’m wearing is called Nectarine and it is perfect to wear on those cold winter days.

I also made a Fringe Dress from Chalk and Notch, I’m writing a separate post and making a video for this dress because it’s that good.

In my video I forgot to tell you about that Butterick B6858 dress and Top (check out the sew along if you haven’t) the collar is a tricky one but I show you how to do it on my video. My daughter got in on the garment recipient makes for December and I told you about this one in one of my videos that I pair RTW with patterns. I finished a pair of chocolate brown corduroy overalls for my daughter using Simplicity S8615, My only change is that I added a coin pocket so it looked close to the Free People Ziggy overalls. The fabric was from Minerva and I must say for a corduroy its beautiful. Very soft, having a larger wale also helps! It is an 8 wale.

Lastly, I made T-shirts using Simplicity S8376 for both my daughter and I. I used a double brushed knit from Joann’s. I have to say, their double brushed knits are amazing. So soft. The name of this fabric is called Coconut Milk. It may be sold out but if you find it grab it because its a really faint cream color. I had purchased 1.5 yards and when I set my pattern for my daughter I could make hers in one yard of fabric including the sleeves so I was able to get one more yard of fabric on the remnant bin… for less than $2 and make one for myself too.

I think that was enough for me for the month of December.

So what are my sewing goals for 2022?

Here are things I want to make….

1. Make a pair of stretch jeans that fit me - I haven’t worn jeans in forever. I can honestly say its been at least ten years because finding jeans that fit is so frustrating. I love wearing them but trying on different types of jeans for hours and hours is not my idea of fun so I have avoided for them quite a while. I think it’s time I made my own pair. I’ll be using Closet Core Ginger Jeans. I expect it to be an odyssey.

2. I want to make more dresses ensembles with a jacket or another garment to go with it, that I can wear to work or wear on the weekends for a casual night out. I’m already planning on using an old pattern from Cynthia Rowley that has been on my stash for some time. It’s K2443.

3. I would like to try more indie patterns, but will try to focus on patterns that are printed. Call me cheap but I just can’t see myself paying $18 for a PDF pattern and then spend two hours piecing it all together or paying another $15 to have a few patterns printed. Nope! Work smarter not harder.

4. Make more pants! I love dresses, gosh do I LOOOOOVE my dresses. they are so comfortable. But I also love to wear pants. So 2022 will be the year of the pant.

5. Slow Sewing- As much as I want to wear my make immediately, I also really enjoy sewing slowly and making sure that things are finished properly. That stitches are straight, that the inside looks as good as the outside and that it fits beautifully.

6. Post more of my finished garments, and show you the details. I don’t do enough of this and I should!

What I want to avoid in 2022?

1. Buying patterns that do not suit my body type or they have no-snow-ball-chance-in-hell of me making them. I must admit that I have quite a few of those. McCall’s patterns… I’m looking at you!

2. Stop buying fabric without a purpose. If I’m going to spend money on fabric I want to make sure I have a pattern and a plan for it. No buying extra fabric that I don’t need, I don’t care how pretty, how good the fabric sale is or how maybe in some distant future I can make X with it. That’s the quickest way to buy fabric that just sits there…. forever.

3. Be so hard on myself if something is not perfect. Strive for excellence but don’t get frustrated if its not absolutely perfect.

4. Taking on more projects than I can comfortably tackle in one month.

What are your sewing goals for 2022?

Sew Along for Butterick 6858

If you don’t have Butterick 6858, I’m going to tell you right now… you are MISSING out on a great pattern. The pattern has a dress, top, two collar versions, pants and a skirt. Although the cover model has a long dress this is meant for athletic type of knits or perhaps a modal knit. Don’t use a double brushed, or a lightweight knit. You need something with a little bit of body on the knit. Especially if you are going to tackle the collar that I did for view A or C. It is a little bit of a tricky collar when you read the instructions but I highly recommend you watch the video and it all becomes clear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved this pattern. I did both a dress and also a top. However, I used a double brushed knit for the dress. I mention above you need a knit fabric with some weight to it so the collar stands on its own.

Does it look like the photos/illustrations on the pattern envelope?
Yes it does. It’s actually a rather easy pattern to make besides the collar that can be the only tricky bit on this pattern.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes I’m pretty used to the Big 4 instructions so I can usually figure it out. Again the collar instructions can be tricky with all the notches and gathers, at first it doesn’t make sense but they actually do!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I took in the sides about 1/2” on both sides but other than that I didn’t make any other alterations.. I may perhaps lengthen the bodice around 2 inches next time.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I already did sew it again, and I would recommend it to others. It should be rated easy and I believe it is.

Butterick 6858

Black Friday Pattern and Fabric Haul

Did anyone partake in Black Friday? The sales were pretty darn good but as with everything in life… I had a budget, and I had a few stipulations.

It had to be on sale and it had to be from a small business. I love Fabric.com (and they carry the Art Gallery Fabrics Wild Forgotten collection but only as a quilted cotton and I wanted a rayon fabric) and Joann’s but I wanted to support small businesses this time around, so I got some beautiful fabrics from Style Maker Fabrics.

Here is what I got…

Wild Forgotten Vine Leaves Rayon in Ochre

Large Scale Floral Brushstroke

Stretchy geometric ITY Cream & Blue

I love Style Maker Fabrics! If you don’t have a Wishlist, you should. Its a great way to dream and perhaps get yourself in trouble. With that being said, don’t be like me and leave fabrics in your wish list for long because they DO sell out and as some seasonal fabrics are they don’t get restocked which I sadly found out the hard way.

I also got some great vintage patterns and a few out of print patterns. What did you get for Black Friday? Anything fun?! Fabric or otherwise, I love hearing about it.

My Bodice Sloper Journey

I have briefly touched on this topic before but I was just starting a journey making a sloper. If you are new to sewing you are probably wondering what the heck is a sloper to begin with? A sloper is a fitted generic pattern based on your own measurements. There is zero ease on this so its fitted, there are no seam allowances (you can add those later on) and there is no style. So it’s like a tight t-shirt made out of woven fabric.

For a lack of a better word I have been dragging my feet on working on a sloper for a really long time because I KNEW that it is going to take forever. Its great if you have someone help you but I don’t. It’s just me, a pattern, muslin and some pins. Guys it takes time. I’m not gonna sugar coat it! It takes some SERIOUS time and patience some that I have little of at times. You have to start, make adjustments and then you have to make a muslin and then get it fitted. BUT I will say its awesome!

All of the big four patterns have fitting shells patterns, they call them a fitting shell instead of a sloper. BUT my only issue with those patterns is that it is ONE size, not multi size so if you are like me size 20 for the bust, in between sizes for the waist and 18 for the hips then a once size pattern is NOT gonna work! I mean it can but I’m trying to make this less painless than it already should be. You need something that is multi sized. So instead of using a fitting shell pattern from the big four. I used a Palmer Pletsch pattern. I used Mccalls 6891 which is no longer in print BUT re-issued under a Butterick B6843. It is THE same pattern. So if you are looking for this pattern this is it. However, I will say if you are looking to do a sloper use M7279 or B6849 shown below. That is a TRUE fitting shell pattern, plus its multi-sized so you can grade away.

Another fitting pattern is McCall’s 7279… which has now been re-issued as Butterick 6849. Their patterns are AWESOME and I actually love their tissue method because it just makes sense. Their patterns walk you thru every single adjustment that you might need and they have lines to guide you on where to make those changes in the tissue. So its easy.

Technical Drawings for B6849 and M6891

So I painstakingly did all the adjustments and made a muslin and adjusted and tried different things. Some things I didn’t need, others I did. It took an entire weekend because I had to give myself little breaks in between PLUS you have to also sew this stuff. BUT I was able to make myself a sloper after it was all said and done using M7279.

You might ask yourself WHY you made a sloper? Well, the beauty of a sloper is that you can grab any bodice pattern and compare it with your sloper. You will see right away what needs to be changed. What kind of changes? It can be as simple as lowering a dart, lowering a neckline, adjusting the shoulders, adjusting the arm holes aka armscye, increasing the length of the bodice, adding width to the waist. You can grab a sloper for your sleeves and change the sleeve pattern rather quickly with just a sloper. for the sleeve. Remember I told you guys I have to do a bicep adjustment EVERY Single time. You can do all of those things right away and know that the bodice or sleeve on the pattern will fit! It will fit as long as the sloper fits your measurements. '

This is the way that I got my sloper done. However, there are other ways that you can get a sloper. You can do a little bit of math and take an online class with Tricia Camacho from Creative Costume Academy and she will walk you on how to draft a bodice sloper. BODICE only! Remember a true full sloper (aka fitting shell) is not only the bodice (front and back), but also sleeves, skirt and pants. She is an excellent teacher. I have seen Tricia teach a class and she’s excellent.

The Sew it Academy also has a class on bodice slopers and dart manipulation. They teach you how to sew from the very start. Great if you are a beginner and they have a ton of courses on a bunch of other things. there is a monthly fee, I was part of it for a while and it is great, and they teach you a lot of things in addition to how to create a sloper.

You can also attend You Tube University and draw a sloper with videos online. That is always something you can do, its free and here is a good one by Christopher Sartorial.

Lastly, Mimi G and Tricia Camacho who owns Creative Costume Academy JUST started an online school that is called Pattern Making Academy it is BRAND spankin’ new. They will teach you how to create a sloper, dart manipulation and what is the best part of creating a sloper.

In the video I also mentioned that Palmer Pletsch has in person workshops using pattern B6849 in different locations thru out the United States. I have never had a chance to attend with all the COVID restrictions and I may hold off on any traveling for a while but I would love to go because its a chance to work alongside another person on fitting.

Slopers have another use, and its actually the best reason why you make yourself a sloper. I will talk about that next week!

December Sewing Plans

Its going to be December before the week is done! Where did the year go?! I feel like once summer was done it has all gone way too quickly for me. But alas, its end of November and December is here. I feel like I have less and less time to sew lately and I suspect that December will be the same way. So I’m trying not to take on more projects so I don’t get overwhelmed. Between you and me, some of those fall projects are still not finished but its ok. There is always next year!

So here are my plans for December:

I found this beautiful flannel fabric from Robert Kaufmann, its under their Mammoth Junior Flannel collection. its called Nectarine. I have seen it sold in numerous fabric stores. It has a plaid pattern of aqua, hot pink and orange. I’ll be making myself another flannel shirt with Butterick 6841. I told you all about this pattern before and besides my rant about it not having finished garment measurements on the outside of the envelope it is actually a GREAT pattern if you are looking for a classic button shirt.

I will say this picture doesn’t do this flannel justice. The color way is bright and just perfect.

McCalls 6696 with a stretch denim from Melanated Fabrics. I got this denim fabric from Melanated when they opened their online store back in November or was it October 2020? It was a while ago. I remember the post office was a mess and lost my package but the gals at Melanated had some extra fabric and were able to fill the order. I’m so glad they did. I have also made a skirt with this fabric and it is amazing. Really soft, didn’t loose any of the indigo dark color when I washed it a couple of times and its perfect when I want just a little bit of stretch. So making myself a button down dress with McCalls 6696. I have to find some buttons for this but one thing at a time. Sadly the fabric is now sold but they have some great denim fabric in their store.

Butterick 6858 with a double brushed navy blue knit from Joanns. I’ve mentioned numerous times that I wear a lot of dresses, skirts and boots. Just like the pattern cover I plan on wearing a pair of knee high boots. This dress is perfect for fall, and I suspect that I will be making it a few times in different fabrics. Perhaps some heavier knits and lighter weights.

Making view A with the knee length dress.

Sewing for my daughter I talked about this in my video about how to get that Free People RTW look with sewing patterns… and its happening! The overralls that she wanted are now available in her size but the price went up. Go figure! But its ok because Simplicity 8615 is it, and the fabric which is a 8 wale in a chocolate brown corduroy from Minerva is already here.

My daughter also wanted a long sleeve t-shirt. Using a Double Brushed Knit from Joann’s in Coconut Milk (yup that was the color name) and its a perfect for fall creamy color hue. It will go well with that set of overalls. I’ll be using Simplicity S8376. I love these hacking patterns, they are what I call the classics. I usually buy two of these patterns and I use one for my daughter and one fore me. Make the adjustments needed to each one and store them away.

Lastly, after testing the Joy Jacket from Chalk and Notch I mentioned I wanted to make the Fringe Dress and its going to happen. I got this Everly Twill fabric from Melanated a while ago! About six months ago. I worked on another Simplicity pattern using this fabric, and I still have two more yards to go! So I’m putting it to good use. I’m sure summer will be here before we know it!

This is the Fringe Dress from Chalk and Notch.

After testing their Joy Jacket earlier this month I loved the drafting and the instructions… so I’m making another one of their patterns. Double bonus it comes in a printed pattern… but I couldn’t wait and just downloaded this one.

Pattern Review - The Joy Jacket by Chalk and Notch

It is no state secret that I’m not a huge fan of PDF patterns. The printing, taping and gluing always stop me in my tracks. I will even go off and say that at times I see all these free patterns and I’m like “I’m gonna take a pass on that, thanks”. But when Chalk and Notch sent out a request for pattern testers for their Chalk and Notch Joy pattern I decided to take a chance and sign up. I have tested for a few others (and I’m picky for what I sign up for!) and just like the patterns from Jennifer Lauren Handmade Patterns, I was pleasantly surprised in a very good way. The Joy Jacket is described on their website as a fully lined, relaxed fit, mid-weight jacket. The front zipper is exposed, View A has a wide collar (which is the one I made) and View B has a hood. The pattern has sizing for A/B cup and C/D Cup.

You can get the pattern in a print at home format or you can get AO copies that you can send to a print shop. The turn around we had for the pattern testing was two weeks so off to print, tape and glue it was, and yes I growled my entire way thru it. But what I loved is that Chalk and Notch gave me a sizing chart, it also had a listing of what pages I needed to print for my size and jacket view I wanted to make, so I didn’t have to print ALLLLLL the pages. I loved that the pattern gave me a description on the amount of ease in the finished garment measurements and how it is meant to fit. I wished I would get that with every single pattern I purchase!

I made View A size 20 A/B cup…As usual I went rogue with the main fabric and used a cotton sateen that I had in my stash (and that I was hoping to use for another jacket) but this seemed like the perfect fabric for it. I also used a printed satin for my lining.

The Joy Jacket from Chalk and Notch Patterns

If you are looking to start making jackets, and have been hesitant to try… this is a perfect pattern to start out with. It is an easy pattern, and the instructions are clear in addition there is an easy to follow sew along on their website with pictures.

The pattern is drafted for a 5’-7” tall person, hence I took 2” off the length of the bodice on the pattern and I also adjusted the side seams on the sleeve to give me a little bit more room on the biceps. You know me and my bicep adjustments… we go hand in hand. I opted not to do the drawstrings at the collar or at the hem because I know I will not use them and my fabric is a little bit more stiff than what is called for in the pattern so if I had added them it would have been more for decorative purposes, which you can certainly do. I also waited to finish putting together my main fabric outer shell because I wanted the zipper to go all the way from the hem and zip up all the way to the collar. So that is another change I made.

This will be my third lined jacket/ coat this season, and this jacket is by FAR my favorite one. In terms of how long it took me to make the jacket… I worked on it for 30 to 45 minutes every night for a week once I had all the pieces cut and did all the pattern assembly. So it’s fairly easy and quick to make. The Joy Jacket is labeled as intermediate most likely because you have to know how to set a zipper but honestly it is a very easy and straight forward pattern. I highly recommend this pattern, and NO this is not an ad or am I being paid in any way to give my opinion.

I decided not to do a drawstring around the collar. I just know I wouldn’t use it. But I saw other testers and theirs looked beautiful, so perhaps for my next one.

Chalk and Notch is having a holiday sale and it ends on November 30th, 2021.

Their Holiday Sale coupon codes⁠ are below…..

All patterns, PDF & Printed, are on sale through Nov 30th! ⁠

hol20 for 20% off any purchase⁠⠀⁠

hol25 for 25% ⁠off when you spend $25⁠

hol30 for 30% off when you spend $50 ⁠

If you are like me you and you like the printed pattern option there is a gift with any printed pattern purchase. They will add a Tailor's Chalk to your printed pattern order as a small gift. Which I have to say, I could use tailor’s chalk any day because it gets used.

The Joy Jacket is not offered as a printed pattern (which is a bummer but I’ll get over it) however it is available in sizes 0-30 with two bust cup options. And heck if you don’t want to print and cut glue like I did… they have a bunch of other printed patterns on their website. I’m currently looking at the Fringe Dress and the Marcel Dress. Both are offered from sizes 0 to 30.

I can see myself making this jacket lined with sherpa fleece, which I will have to go up perhaps one size and make one adjustment to the lining to reduce bulk (and of course you can’t line the sleeves with sherpa unless you are going for the Michelin man look!), you could also use faux suede (gosh that would look beautiful) AND you could also use this jacket pattern as a raincoat. I would have to seal the seams but that is no big deal. So that is my review!

It is a great pattern and beautifully drafted.

⁠⠀⁠

Get that Free People RTW Look with Sewing Patterns

I went to the mall this past weekend we had some errands to do so I tagged along, and I will say this I’m not one to go to a shopping mall because its just not something I enjoy to do so I don’t go. BUT while we were there my daughter asked me to go check out a few stores she likes, sure why not?! We stopped by Madewell they had some nice things and then we went by Free People. I have to say its clearly geared for young market like my daughter. I’m for SURE not part of their target market because all I see is oversized, bohemian style. However, my daughter loves it all and runs from place to place inside the store trying to find styles to show me. Sadly a lot of the things she liked were out of stock in her size. She loved this pair of corduroy overalls but they are sold out online and in all stores. And then she asked me…. can you make these? I’m pretty sure I can!

So here are a few patterns that you can use to get the Free People look.

I loved this cardigan and they actually had quite a few of these cardigans all over the store in different lengths. Some were hand knitted and others were just stitched in a knit fabric. But this one Jessie Intarsia Cardi stuck out and its beautiful. Sold out in Small but you can use True Bias Marlo Sweater to get a similar look. I love the bright colors on the Free People cardigan because she can wear it with a pair of jeans, leggings and a t-shirt under it.

Next up is this Yoko tunic. Its oversized and she loved this ochre color in it. Perfect for fall. But you can also try using Simplicity’s S8551. I will have to extend the panels on the top for this pattern but it does the job. I will say this pattern is now out of print but you can find it on Etsy or Amazon. Some Joann’s stores may still have it. Thankfully I have it in my stash because I’m looking to make myself an orange long dress with one of these styles.

I saw this dress, it has this plum / violet color on the website. Its called the Violet Mini Dress, it has a square neckline and also a square back with gathered puffy sleeves and a tie in the back. I thought you can use M8197 or M8108. For M8197 you may have to square up the neckline in the front and back in addition to adding a tie in the back but that is fairly easy to do.

Another option is M8108 view C but I also saw another dress in orange. On the website its called the Gretchen Pinafore Convertible dress with ties at the shoulders, midi length and a ruffled hem. However the website says that you can use the ties in this dress and wear it as a maxi skirt which I thought was interesting.

Luci and I saw this dress The Shayla Velvet Mini made out of velvet at the store, and sure enough I remembered a pattern I have in my stash. The sleeves are longer and i was somewhat unsure of how the patterns was supposed to fit as I thought it looked a little big on the pattern cover. Its one of those patterns that can be made in different ways. Perhaps velvet for that bohemian look or a nice crepe de chine or poplin for a more put together look, It happens to be pattern M8237, it has gathers in the front button band. I was very surprised to see the dress there. Sewing with velvet is an experience in itself but perhaps that is a video for some other time. I don't wear velvet because I just don’t love the fabric and the way it feels also it feels like something I can only wear during the cold months out of the year so I just don’t sew with velvet but you can make this dress with other fabrics.

I can’t write this blog without mentioning the Ziggy Cord overalls that my daughter liked. The store did a great job styling the overalls along with a buttons down shirt and a flannel shirt tied around the waist. It is exactly what my daughter would wear along with a pair of doc martens boots. But of course they are out of stock in the store and online. So we decided we would make them using either using M8162 or S8615

They also had this Daria Shirt dress on their site and it reminded me of the Dawn McCall’s Dress. The dress retails on the site for $228 and it is 100% poly. I still have the fabric waiting for me because last summer I was hoping to make the dress… perhaps now I’ll just make it for my daughter and using the pattern. The dress from Free People was just a maxi length with long bishop sleeves.

This Charlie Bustier dress is perfect for those upcoming holiday parties, you would have to find the right fabric for it but McCalls’ M7946 with a few modifications to the spaghetti straps and also length would fit the technical drawings for this.

Of course, they had a Cassie shacket RIGHT by the front window. I still can’t see myself wearing one of these because it is in the 20’s which is a pretty low temperature for November but I’m pretty sure my daughter would be all for wearing one of these with leggings, her boots and a t-shirt under it. So enter the pattern that I just returned but that I will be getting yet again! S9388, I suspect that pattern will be in popular demand for quite some time. I know Fiber Mood also had the Rya shacket pattern if you are looking into Indie patterns for this.

Last but not least, my daughter loved a faux suede Diogo coat which is an oversized jacket with dropped shoulders and sherpa fleece lining. It doesn’t look like a hard jacket to make (or so I think!) but I’m thinking that I could potentially use V1563 for it. If you can think of a better pattern for this coat …. I’m open to Indies too would love to hear all about it.

Next time you go shopping perhaps put the garment on and take a picture, you never know what pattern you may find that is pretty darn close. I always tell myself if I can make it for less then perhaps its not such a bad idea to take on some sewing projects on my own.

How to how to sew with wool fabric?

I’ve been seeing this questions asked again and again on Instagram within the sewing community…. How do you sew with wool? How do you pre-treat wool? Do I have to wash wool? It seems like everyone is working on those winter coats and they’ve never worked with wool before and there are some things you do need to do before you event cut your pattern pieces.

First off, wool is a natural fiber and great for cool weather clothing such as sweaters and coats. Many people are afraid to work with it, but its actually really easy to work with wool. You just have to remember a few key things.

Before you begin working with wool you have to pre - treat the fabric. You can NOT skip this step! Again for the people in the back that don’t pre-treat their fabric (trust me I’m usually one of those), you HAVE to pre- treat your wool and there are Three ways you can do this. Any one of them works!

PRE - TREAT YOUR FABRIC AKA. SHRINK IT!

1. Put it in the dryer on the highest drying setting with another garment that is wet for 30 minutes.. You want that other garment to be wet because the dryer will steam up with the heat and water from the extra garment. Your wool fabric will shrink in the process in there.

2. You can put your iron on the highest setting. Most irons have a wool setting and make sure the water reservoir is full. You will hover (key word HOVER) the iron over the wool fabric about 1/2” and this will also help you pre-shrink the fabric. Depending on how much fabric you have this can take a long time. Its also a great way to test the fabric if you want to do option 1 above.

3. Take it to the cleaners and ask them to dry clean it for you. That is third option but also depending how much fabric you have can also be pricey.

I usually prefer option 1. Its the quickest, cheapest and easiest way to pre-treat your fabric.

SEWING NEEDLES

You can use a universal sewing needle for wools. So 80 / 12 with light wools (thinner needle), 90 /14 for medium wools and 100 /16 for heavy wools… and this is like bag making wools. So for garments stay with 80/12 or 90/14 sewing needles.

STITCH LENGTH

If you are sewing with a thick coating fabric I suggest you lengthen your stitch to around 3mm to 3.5mm. If its a lighter fabric then 2.4 to 3mm will do. Don’t forget to lower the pressure foot a little! Its always good to test it on a scrap piece of fabric. I stick with my regular presser foot for sewing with wools and polyester thread. I’ve never had any issues with either.

INTERFACING

Yes, you still have to interface those facings! So make sure you use a medium weight fusible interfacing.

GRADE THOSE SEAM ALLOWANCES

Don’t forget to grade your seam allowances! It reduces the bulk in the seams and it will be easier when you press those seams and it will give you an overall nicer look.

Grade your seam allowances. Perhaps cut one side to 1/8” and the other to 1/2” so when they are pressed together they don’t form an indentation on your garment.

PRESS THOSE SEAMS

Once you stitch a seam, press those seams open and make sure you use a wooden clapper. I’ll be honest after all these years I still don’t have a fancy wooden clapper and I have no intention of getting one any time soon. I should invest in one, but guess what a flat piece of wood does the job! So I go au natural with a 8” long 2 X 4” Chunk of wood. Avoid the shiny look on your wool. So make sure you set your iron to a medium setting, I always use a pressing cloth and lots of steam for wool.

LASTLY,

Use a jean-a-ma-jig, (if you don’t have one handy…you can also fold a piece of wool a few times) if you need to for any bulky starts to your stitching or a walking foot on your sewing machine if you need a little help moving the fabric. Sometimes I use it when a coat starts getting a little heavy, most of the time I stick with my regular presser foot.

Walking foot (left) and Jean a Ma Jig (right)

STORING WOOL GARMENTS

It is good that you store your finished garment in a safe place because moths and carpet beetles LOVE wool. So at the end of the season store (make sure you get it dry cleaned first) in a plastic big and set either some sprigs of lavender or fragrant pieces of cedar. I stay away from the moth balls because those don’t smell so nice.

Five Questions One Take

I had a completely different video for this week, it will just have to wait for next week. I watch other YouTube channels. How can you not!? Some of those other channels are so good, and you learn so much. As I watched Whitney from Tom Kat Stitchery on Tuesday, she talked about sharing these five questions in one take. One take as in no editing. Yes we have to edit our videos. The dog barks, the plane sounds like its about to land on top of my roof (I live close to an airport) or I goof up some instruction during a sew along and I have to edit the videos. So this was just answer five questions and do it all in one take. I’m game for a challenge.

I said I was going to post pictures of my former life as an event designer or event florist. Just so you get an idea of what my former life and what it involved…. yes I made curtains for this job, I made more pillows than I would care to tell you about. I even sewed a couple of tallits for a chuppah (jewish friends you know what those are)…. by hand. So I sewed but not to the degree that I do now. I will say this, I have purchased enough fabric to last me for a lifetime.

So I was a little busy with another creative endeavor, now that it’s done and I’m sewing full steam ahead I was able to save a few things from my old studio like my design table. I love that thing and we have been together almost 15 years. My husband had it made and I just had it refinished, so it looks like new. Its also on wheels so it can move anywhere within the space.

I also saved some of my satin ribbons on which I can use for bias tape or my green jadeite collection that holds a lot of my notions. I try to keep a fairly clean sewing studio. If you can’t find what you are looking for then you are wasting time.

All of my patterns and fabric are behind that wall to the right hand side. I try not to keep a lot of fabric. One… it becomes overwhelming and two if you buy too much fabric you may have a lot of waste if you don’t pair a pattern to it. So I try to limit that as much as possible. I do need to take some time and start cataloguing all my patterns. I just haven’t had time or have a found a good way to keep track of all of them.

Everything must have a place! I love having lots of empty areas so I can lay my patterns after I’ve cut them or put projects that I’m working on at the time. I have a sewing machine and one serger. That’s it. My first sewing machine is tucked behind the wall in its original carrying case. It was a good starter machine. Now I use it to do some topstitching or use it for not so great things like …. sequins were I don’t want to use my Bernette.

Thanks for stopping by!

Simplicity S9368 Sew Along

Who knew I would take a good look at those fall Simplicity crafting patterns with a fine tooth comb to find a great pattern for hats! This coming from someone who doesn’t know where the heck is her hat. So why not make one! You can purchase S9368 pattern on Simplicity’s Website

Some thing to note especially if this is your first time making a hat, there is a correct way to measure the circumference of your head so you get the correct fit for THIS pattern. Most adult heads are 23” but we all know there are some folks with smaller heads and others with bigger ones, so make sure you grab a measuring tape and measure your noggin’.

Instead of measuring your head with the measuring tape level, you have to make sure you place the measuring tape at a slight angle. The beanie hat that we are making sits at an angle (and the rest of the hat views on this pattern do too) so make sure you measure your head with the measuring tape at a slight angle.

The measuring tape is at a slight angle and NOT level!

Make sure you measure your head correctly, too small and the hat will not fit or be too tight, too big and it will fall over your eyes!

I used a wool blend of Wool and cashmere from Minerva You can also use fleece (if you are making this hat for kids… use a fun fleece print!), which I actually think it will be quite nice. I just needed something that is warm and will be water repellant (we get lots of snow!) which wool surprisingly is. Remember if you use wool you have to pre treat the fabric, what does that mean? You have to pre shrink it before you cut your pattern pieces. You can pre-shrink your wool by using lots of steam from your iron, or throw it in the dryer with another garment that is wet (a little more wet than just damp… you want it to steam in the dryer).

For the lining I used a soft cotton lawn fabric with lots of colors. Have some fun with the lining, you can go classic with a silky lining or you can even use a sherpa fleece for pattern piece number 2 on your lining, that will keep your ears rather warm.

One thing to note on the pattern, it calls for interfacing all pieces on the pattern. I interfaced my pattern pieces, HOWEVER when I turned my hat and tried it on, it was a little stiffer than I would have liked, so I removed the interfacing from pattern piece number 3 and 4 ONLY. I kept the interfacing in pattern piece number 2. Again, this depends on what fabric you use for this pattern.

Have some fun with this one. This is a great pattern and perfect for the holidays if you want to make hats for your family or give them as a gift. You can make all different views for everyone in the family or friends. Lastly, you need very little fabric for this one, so all those remnants and fabric scraps that you have been saving…. this is the pattern to use them on! Happy Sewing!

September Pattern Haul and Sloper Draping Class

So I mentioned in my video that earlier this week I attended a sloper draping class with Joe Vecchiarelli. He was excellent and very knowledgeable in draping fabric to create slopers for a bodice on a dress form. I don’t own a dress form and I won’t be getting one any time soon, if you follow my You Tube channel you know I love my sewing patterns. BUT I do think having a sloper for yourself is a useful thing to have because you can always take out a commercial sewing pattern and check it against your sloper. You can see what things you need to change in the commercial pattern so it fits you. For example if you constantly have to move the bust darts, adjust the sleeves, change the shoulders or even adjust the armholes to go higher or lower a sloper could be really beneficial to you. Although I can’t share videos from the class (yes we were allowed to take videos) they are for personal use only BUT Joe does have a You Tube video, see a link here. Where he shows you how to drape a sloper for a pair of pants and he explains it in detail so you can follow along, using your own measurements so you can create your own.

I also mentioned in the video that the big four Pattern Companies have fitting shell bodice patterns, but buyers beware they are sold by size individually so its not multi size like their patterns. So heads up and if you get them, make sure you are buying the correct one!

For Butterick it is B5627, Vogue is V1004, McCalls is M2718 and for Simplicity it is under their Amazing Fit Collections. You can also learn how to do a bodice sloper from the Sew It Academy (and I will say you can’t beat their monthly price to learn how to sew) OR you can also have Creative Costume Academy to make one for you or teach you how to draft your own. So lots of options for this!

Lastly, lots of great fall patterns in my September sewing pattern haul. At first glance they look ok but upon further inspection there are some great fall patterns like a trench coat, a pleated skirt, a knit dress with a shrug, and a big cut dress. The one that I couldn’t find is the pleated skirt pattern. I would have to find fabric for it, so I’m not in a hurry just yet.

Get the fall RTW Looks with Sewing Patterns

This blog post is all about sewing the high street trends also known as Ready to Wear with sewing patterns. I could go on and on about this because there is a lot of good stuff out there. Especially after another fashion week in New York City and the Met Gala that took place this year on the First Monday in September…. away from the usual first Monday in May.

So let’s begin with McCall’s and Simplicity Fall Patterns. They are brand spankin’ new! Well, if you can call those patterns two weeks old babies as of mid September 2021. But I have to be honest, I liked a handful of them at first glance and I passed up a few things, actually a LOT of things. Crafting a yoga mat or making curtains anyone… Not this girl! I usually have to go back two more times to really look at the line drawings and take it all in. That’s when the creative sewjo gets going… and then I spend a little time on Instagram and Pinterest (yes I do go down that pinning rabbit hole every now and then), but once I do that I get inspired, and I want to make all the things.

With that being said, let me tell you about some great fall sewing patterns and how you can use them to make those expensive Ready to Wear styles that I have no way to afford.

McCalls M8246 - This is a trench coat pattern by Melissa Watson from the Palmer Pletsch group. So its a fitting pattern. I will be honest when I saw the pattern cover I wasn’t thrilled…. a fitting pattern and it was really large on the model. So I passed it up. BUT as I glanced on Instagram Banana Republic posted a picture of this model in a deep fall red trench coat. It stopped me in my tracks. I love bold colors, especially for fall. I will say I went back to that trench coat pattern and its one to get. That coat at Banana its actually really well priced but I know I can make my own and fit it to my body.

McCall’s M8248 - I’m actually still surprised I like this pattern. This comes from someone who wore a pleated plaid skirt Monday thru Friday for Catholic School for quite a few years. So when Sezanne posted this picture of a model in a boho print pleated long skirt and a light sweater with fall boots… I was hooked! In comes this pleated skirt pattern in different lengths pattern. What is not to like about that? Seems like the stylists talked to each other for this one… and I’m here for it.

Hold on to your patterns because I got some more..

McCall’s 8099 and Vogue V1828 - They are jogger pants, and of course you can put your sneakers and go out for a run or you can make them in silk and take a page out of Tom Ford’s Net- a- porter silk jogger pants! You will need 2.5 yards of fabric, elastic and some aglets so you can make that draw string cord look a little nicer than usual but with some heals and a cute top you are ready to go AND be comfortable too.

Simplicity S8845 -I will say there are so many great styles at Banana Republic this time around that what I really want to do is go over there and purchase them all so I can keep sewing but alas…I better keep sewing because right now that’s not in the budget. What do I mean by that? Check out this gorgeous faux suede jacket. Swoooooon!!!! But at $498 I just can’t swing it, and I know from sewing leather its not for the faint of heart… one wrong needle mark and you have a hole that you can’t take back. But back to the pattern, Mimi G drafted this great jean jacket pattern but guess what? Nobody said we have to stick with denim fabric, we can make that in a heavy weight fabric and faux suede fits that category as far as I’m concerned. The similarity is spot on.

Simplicity S9381 -Talking about Mimi G, she sure knows what styles we should be wearing. This pattern has a jacket and a pair of pants… not loving the styling on the pants but I can quickly get over that, like REAL quick. Especially when the jacket is a Balmain Jacket that retails north of $1,000. Double bonus she always makes a sew along to go with her patterns. So you KNOW she is going to be making that jacket.

Lets keep going and I have some things for the fall weather folks that live on those southern states or down under in Australia… those places were there is no chill in the air right now and there will never be like back home in Puerto Rico. I haven’t forgotten about you. I got some good stuff here for you too.

McCall’s M7948 - Perfect pattern for a beginner, there are no buttons (well there is one but you can omit that with a hook and eye) and no zippers. What it does have are a gazillion gathers, ok I’m exaggerating. But look at these two looks from Ann Taylor and Banana Republic, a few small hacks to the neckline and you are in Ready to Wear business.

Simplicity S9326 - I love this pattern, you can get rid of that ruffle and sew up that slit if you are in the modest don't want to show no upper legs, its a great pattern. In comes this Ann Taylor style with this beautiful madras plaid print. I have to say S9326 is pretty spot on if you want that Ready to Wear Look.

One more to go!!! You getting inspired in sewing a few of those fall patterns? There is some good stuff out there, and I have to add that half the fun is finding the right fabric for it.

McCall’s M7971 - This is a great dress pattern with a slit on the side, and an semi open back. There are for sleeve variations and its actually a really nicely drafted dress, have you ever heard of Reformation? Its a great apparel online shop and they even have a few stores in major cities. They have some beautiful dresses but this one comes to mind and if you love this dress you will love M7971.

Sew Along for M7991 and Pattern Review

M7991 is a knit dress with a wrap top and a knit skirt, it is a great pattern if you are a beginner or just want a quick sew. I have now made it twice, and both times I have used 2 yards of fabric. This would be a great pattern to make with a knit print and it will need a belt (at least I feel like mine will) and a great pair of boots.

Pattern Sizing: Pattern has one size range from Small to XL. I cut an XL and had to take it in, so perhaps next time I will be cutting a size L and going from there!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes looks exactly like it does on the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the pattern, great pattern as its a quick sew and you can change the color of the neck band or sleeve cuffs.

Fabric Used: I have made this pattern twice, once for myself in a mustard knit and also in a white, gray and blue knit print. I’m linking them both.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn’t extend the bodice but I did add about three inches to the skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, already have and yes would recommend it to others. Its a great pattern for the pattern stash.

2021 Summer Sewing Makes

I was a busy maker these past couple of months, I was able to cajole my teen daughter into taking pictures of my makes. Here is a round up of what I made, patterns I used and also links to fabrics that are still in stock at the time I wrote this post.

Closet Core Pietra Pants - This is a great indie pattern for any beginner or advance maker. The pattern features a high waist for a more polished aka. dressed up look but the back has a 2” wide elasticated band. So if you hit the picnic a little too hard this summer the pants stretch with you. I wore my pair of shorts just about every other day. Great pattern to have in your pattern stash so you can make it again and again. It comes in shorts, tapered and a wide leg version. Cannot say enough good things about this pattern.

B6677 - This dress pattern from Butterick is a good one. Quick easy make, I made it in this light blue Lyocell fabric. You can make it as a long dress or in my case a knee length dress.The pattern can be worn sleeve less or you can also add flounce for a sleeve like detail.

I’m going to call this my four yards of summer. I made quite a bit of things with these four yards of fabric from Zealouff Fabrics. It is a printed scuba, so perfect for dresses, shirts, skirts AND a swimsuit.

I did a mash up of the bottom for S9261 (can’t pass up on those pockets!) and the top v neck portion of M8058 for a sleeveless dress. I love this dress and the fabric makes it look dressed up and since it’s a scuba I can move, stretch and go about my day.

I also made S9273 for a quick make with 1 yard of fabric, M7386 a knee length skirt and a swimsuit using pattern B4532. So you can say I got my money’s worth with these four yards of fabric.

I also hopped on the wrap dress bandwagon with S8925. I used this blue knit print from Joann’s, and I believe the fabric is now completely sold out. It was part of their summer fabrics. It took me a while to fall in love with it but now seeing the finished dress and I absolutely love it. I love this pattern, you get four garments in this pattern. A dress, a top, a skirt and a pair of pants.

Let’s keep going down summer sewing memory lane! I tried to make myself a few tops this summer and I made two tops with pattern B6662. This pattern has gathering on the front with a drawstring. I love this pattern because not only can you make it in a cotton lawn fabric but also nicer fabrics such as a crepe. The pattern also has a few other views with a tie in front.

This next pattern is S8912, I actually used this pattern as a test for my orange dress that I talked about in my fall sewing plans video. I used some inexpensive fabric from Joann’s. But this turned out to be a great cover up for going to the pool.

Although I don’t love PDF patterns that doesn’t mean I don’t love Indie Designers. Believe me I do love those indie designers and if they have a tissue pattern in my size… Double bonus, I’m happy to pay so I can get a copy of it. Although Friday Pattern Company doesn’t have the Adrienne Blouse in my size, I bit the bullet and purchased their PDF pattern. Printed the 13 pages at home (I will say that’s my page limit) and do the cut / glue / zigzag puzzle thing. I will say although I’m late to this pattern’s party. I’m so glad I got it. It is a perfect top pattern and better yet I can see myself hacking this one into a midi length knit dress. Highly recommend it.

I also made M7974… it is not an easy pattern to make and I will be honest. This is more of an intermediate pattern. It does take some time to make it but its a GOOD one. It has three different types of sleeves, not counting the sleeveless version. It has different length of skirts and you can also add a collar if you wanted to. As I said, it is an intermediate pattern and a lot of the versions I have seen online most makers raise the neckline. So just keep that in mind. You can also use the bodice and add a peplum … and use it as a top. Great pattern!

I also made a By Hand London Anna dress using this beautiful Austin print from Dashwood Studios that I got off Minerva’s website. Although its a lovely pattern I don’t know if I’m in love with it. It is available as a printed tissue pattern. I think I may just modify a few things like the pleats at the bust and make them into gathers. I love this dress and its mostly because of the fabric I got from Minerva.

My last make for the summer was M7967. I did view C with the gathers at the bust but used the sleeves from M8058. I sure have gotten my money’s worth out of that M8058 pattern! The sleeves provided in the M7967 pattern have gathers and I rather not have extra gathers by my shoulders. The fabric I used is now sold out in stores and online. I mention in the video this is my summer pajamas dress but I absolutely love it. I put a slit on the side for a less pajamas look but it still looks like a pair of pajamas. Its a good thing as far as I’m concerned and I love this dress!

Fall Pattern and Fabric Sewing Plans

For so many years living in the Midwest I feel like Labor Day weekend hits and it marks the end of summer, with it the weather starts turning from one day to the next. You get that chill in the air and the days get a tad more windy. In other words, fall shows itself, and I will say I love fall and all fall things. Growing up in Puerto Rico you didn’t get any of the distinct seasons. You got summer and a little bit of spring when the trees looked a little but more full and that was the extent of the seasons. But living in the US and in the Midwest you get the full four seasons spectrum. Which I gotta say its great because I love to sew clothes.

So here are my sewing plans for the next two months or so.

M7967 - Calling this my last summer make (one more!). I bought plenty of this double brushed knit fabric from Joann’s, I made myself an Adrienne Blouse by Friday Pattern Company. Great pattern by the way quick to make with 1.5 yards but I wanted to make another knit dress and I was able to get another 2 yards. I believe this fabric is completely sold out. I’m doing view C with the gathering at the front from M7967 and using the sleeves from M8058.

Adrienne Blouse from The Friday Pattern Company - One of the few indie patterns I’ve tried this year.

M7991 - This is a wrap dress, its not a new pattern but its great for a beginner. I think it’s got like four pieces, but I’m using this double brushed mineral yellow knit. I’ll pair this with a pair of knee high boots, a belt and I’m ready to go.

M7893- Another wrap dress, its a slightly different version from the one above but I got this geometric print at Joann’s from their fall collection (if we can call it that) and I thought… why not! I tend to go for these designs as I don’t want to deal with matching stripes or big designs.

M8083 - I started working on this pattern about three months ago, I had picked a crinkle rayon and it was all working well until I added the bottom portion and the waist became a dropped waist from the stretch and weight of the fabric, so I had to abandon that project. So I’m coming back at it now with a satin backed crepe. I’m using the crepe side. As much as I would love to have a satin dress, I may get weird looks at the grocery store. But I do love the color on this satin! If I can find more of this fabric I can see myself making a bias skirt with the satin side.

V1835 - I talked about this one in my pattern haul last week, and I love the asymmetrical neckline and this one is perfect to lounge around my home on the weekends. I got this python print months ago. Don’t ask me why I got it. I’m not a python print person but I figured I might as well use it because this I can rock at home on a Sunday morning.

S8551 - I will be hacking this pattern. These sleeves are a big fat no as shown on the battery with the bell shaped or the balloon on view D. I may go for a 3/4 length sleeve and do a cuff on them along with elongating the skirt with a side slit. I’ll be using this Everly Brick Twill from Melanated Fabrics. It is now sold out but they do have it in Everly Twill red. It is really really really soft. If I have enough fabric I’ll be making a top with it too.

M5579 OR S9041 - SO I also have this Troy Bluestone fabric from Melanated. My preference is to do S9041 but I do wonder if I have enough fabric for this pattern or if I do M5579. I guess I won’t know until I cut all the pattern pieces and see if it all fits, Plus it also has a pattern so I have to make sure that its placed in the right place, that right there is why you want tissue paper for your patterns! M5579 is no longer in print and you will have to find it on Etsy.

B6331 - It is a unlined raglan sleeve trench jacket. I have plenty of fun bias tape from a dress that I made a few weeks ago with a Dashwood Studio fabric I purchased from Minerva and I also have cerulean blue sateen from Joann’s. It will be a slow sew because putting in bias tape will take a while but I think once I’m done I’ll be happy with the end result. The bias tape gives it a fun vibe inside the jacket but I can wear it both in the fall and spring. This pattern is no longer in print, you will have to find this one on Etsy or Amazon.

M7470- One of those Palmer Pletsch tissue patterns, I have this beautiful chocolate brown faux suede fabric. Since its suede I need to take it slow because once you puncture it there is no going back, so I will most definitely make a toile on this to check fit and pretty much practice the pattern so when i sew the suede its much easier the second time around. This pattern with this fabric feels a little reminiscent of classic Halston dresses. This pattern is no longer in print under McCalls but look them under a Butterick pattern number in the near future as Palmer Pletsch has been reissuing their patterns under Butterick with a different pattern number I don’t see it within the new fall patterns just released but I’m sure this one will be coming up soon. If not there is always Etsy or amazon.

So those are my plans, that’s quite a bit. Let me know what are you sewing for fall.

August 2021 Pattern Haul

We are less than a month away from the fat lady singing summer is officially over, and you know that on Labor Day weekend come that Monday the air just feels cold. So I’m already getting ready for fall and Butterick’s fall patterns did not disappoint. Now that we are on our way to fall I’m also going to try and do more woven fabrics which means do a lot more fitting. Hence my loot with Palmer / Pletsch fitting patterns. I got them all, or at least I think I did. Til the fat lady sings… lets keep enjoying the nice weather, summer dresses, shorts and great outdoors.

Different types of sewing stitches

Stitch this, stitch that… stay stitch, under stitch, straight stitch, lock in those stitches. WHAT does it all mean? I’m going to tell you its all a big mumbo jumbo when you are a beginner sewist. BUT I assure you once you know them, it all makes sense and I will also show you in the video above why you need them and why you need to use the right one.

So lets start out with STAY STITCHING

Often overlooked and many people think “I’m just gonna skip that” but don’t skip stay stitching. Plus it just takes like a minute or two and it will save you a big headache down the sewing road. Stay stitching is a stitch we use when we don’t want our fabric to stretch. Its mostly used on necklines and armholes because they are curved, and since this fabric is curved its cut across the bias grain on the fabric... which means its going to stretch SO we do stay stitching so it doesn’t stretch (hence stay stitch, so the fabric stays on its original state and it doesn’t stretch)... It is a straight stitch through ONE layer of fabric 1/2” away from the raw edge. The Big Four usually give you these little itty bitty arrows showing direction. I can NEVER see which way they go so…Try to start at the center of a neckline and work your way out, BUT if you forget to do this its not the end of the world.

Next up is ZIG ZAG STITCH

Zig Zag Stitch Is used for two things.... Usually to sew knit garments. When I say don’t forget to use a zig zag stitch its because knits need to stretch when you wear them. So the only way to do this is to use a zig zag stitch OR as I like to call it a narrow zig zag stitch. Some machines have a lighting bolt stitch and some don’t. If you don’t have this on your machine all you have to do is set your machine to a narrow stitch width.

You can also use a zig zag stitch to finish off a seam to prevent the fabric from fraying.

STRAIGHT STITCH

This is your usual straight stitch for most commercial patterns this is done 5/8” or 1.5 cm away from the raw edge. This is a permanent stitch so we always lock it on our machine. So we stitch three stitches and then we back stitch three stitches so we lock them in so the threads don’t unravel. We straight stitch the length we need and then when we get to the end, we yet again we back stitch so we lock those stitches in. Straight stitches have ZERO width and usually are 3 to 3.5 mm in length on your sewing machine.

BASTING STITCH

We baste when we need a temporary straight stitch used to hold layers of fabric together until we final stitch it in place. Key word with basting stitches is temporary. When you baste, you do NOT lock in your stitches at the start or at the end. Remember these are temporary stitches so we want to easily remove them later on. SO we don’t lock them in. We also use the longest running stitch in our sewing machine. In my case it’s a length of 5mm or it can be a 4mm on other sewing machines. You just want to hold the two pieces of fabric together.

UNDERSTITCH

It is a straight stitched (so you lock it in at the start and at the end) used to stop a facing or a lining from peeking out from the inside of a garment. When attaching a facing or a lining we under stitch the facing or lining to the seam allowance. You usually stitch 1/8” away from the seam line. I must admit I have a fascination with under stitching. Don’t ask me why, I do love to under stitch because it gives your garment a much nicer finish.

EASE STITCH

We ease stitch when we need to ease a sleeve into the arm hole. Very similar to gathering stitches…So usually we do TWO rows of long running stitches. So again your longest running straight stitch on your machine. In my case the longest running stitch is 5mm and I leave the threads long on my stitching because I want to pull on those stitches later on to ease the fabric. One row is usually done 1/4” away from the raw edge and the next one is done 1/2” away from the raw edge. These are temporary stitches hence why you do not lock them in.

SLIP STITCH

Slip stich means you grab needle and thread and you stitch by hand. Yeah I know, its a bummer but every know and then its time to put some music and go at it the ol’ fashioned way with needle and thread. It is also called a ladder stitch. We usually use this to close a seam that perhaps your machine can’t do.

TOP STITCHING

This is decorative stitch, some times its done 1/4 from the seam OR stitch were it is indicated in the instructions. This is a straight stitch! If you have a top stitching presser foot or an edge stitch presser foot, I strongly suggest you use it. It makes a HUGE difference, if you don’t have one, you can always use washi tape as a guide OR the presser foot.

Alright, I hope this video and blog was a little helpful for you and you can use it as a reference. The more you continue sewing you will eventually know which stitch you have to use because you will see them called out again and again. Especially in the the BIG four patterns that always list their types of stitches in the glossary.

Sew Along for McCalls 8219

I still had 1.5 yards of fabric after making McCalls 8215 and since I’ve been trying to use some of the fabric from the fabric stash I though hey I have this pattern why not make a top. This sew along video and pattern review is for view C.

Pattern Description: M8219 is a easy knit top with three different views and three different sleeve combinations. It is a really flattering pattern and easy to sew.

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 22 and as always I have to adjust the bodice for length.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes looks exactly like it does on the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the pattern, I can see myself making it again in different knits. Plus its a great pattern as I said it is really flattering.

Fabric Used: I used that amazing cerulean blue double brushed knit fabric. Between making M8215, and some other garments with this fabric I’m pretty sure I must have purchased the 8 yards the fabric store had. It is so soft, washes well and drama free to sew. They have this fabric in so many colors.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I extended the top bodice piece by 3 inches and took off 3 inches of the lower pattern piece to make sure the criss cross hit below the bust line but that ended giving me way too much cleavage so I adjusted the fabric pieces so they hit were they need to end. I also added 1/2” to the bicep sleeve adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will most likely make this pattern again. Super easy plus 1.5 yards of fabric can’t beat that.