Simplicity S9368 Sew Along

Who knew I would take a good look at those fall Simplicity crafting patterns with a fine tooth comb to find a great pattern for hats! This coming from someone who doesn’t know where the heck is her hat. So why not make one! You can purchase S9368 pattern on Simplicity’s Website

Some thing to note especially if this is your first time making a hat, there is a correct way to measure the circumference of your head so you get the correct fit for THIS pattern. Most adult heads are 23” but we all know there are some folks with smaller heads and others with bigger ones, so make sure you grab a measuring tape and measure your noggin’.

Instead of measuring your head with the measuring tape level, you have to make sure you place the measuring tape at a slight angle. The beanie hat that we are making sits at an angle (and the rest of the hat views on this pattern do too) so make sure you measure your head with the measuring tape at a slight angle.

The measuring tape is at a slight angle and NOT level!

Make sure you measure your head correctly, too small and the hat will not fit or be too tight, too big and it will fall over your eyes!

I used a wool blend of Wool and cashmere from Minerva You can also use fleece (if you are making this hat for kids… use a fun fleece print!), which I actually think it will be quite nice. I just needed something that is warm and will be water repellant (we get lots of snow!) which wool surprisingly is. Remember if you use wool you have to pre treat the fabric, what does that mean? You have to pre shrink it before you cut your pattern pieces. You can pre-shrink your wool by using lots of steam from your iron, or throw it in the dryer with another garment that is wet (a little more wet than just damp… you want it to steam in the dryer).

For the lining I used a soft cotton lawn fabric with lots of colors. Have some fun with the lining, you can go classic with a silky lining or you can even use a sherpa fleece for pattern piece number 2 on your lining, that will keep your ears rather warm.

One thing to note on the pattern, it calls for interfacing all pieces on the pattern. I interfaced my pattern pieces, HOWEVER when I turned my hat and tried it on, it was a little stiffer than I would have liked, so I removed the interfacing from pattern piece number 3 and 4 ONLY. I kept the interfacing in pattern piece number 2. Again, this depends on what fabric you use for this pattern.

Have some fun with this one. This is a great pattern and perfect for the holidays if you want to make hats for your family or give them as a gift. You can make all different views for everyone in the family or friends. Lastly, you need very little fabric for this one, so all those remnants and fabric scraps that you have been saving…. this is the pattern to use them on! Happy Sewing!

September Pattern Haul and Sloper Draping Class

So I mentioned in my video that earlier this week I attended a sloper draping class with Joe Vecchiarelli. He was excellent and very knowledgeable in draping fabric to create slopers for a bodice on a dress form. I don’t own a dress form and I won’t be getting one any time soon, if you follow my You Tube channel you know I love my sewing patterns. BUT I do think having a sloper for yourself is a useful thing to have because you can always take out a commercial sewing pattern and check it against your sloper. You can see what things you need to change in the commercial pattern so it fits you. For example if you constantly have to move the bust darts, adjust the sleeves, change the shoulders or even adjust the armholes to go higher or lower a sloper could be really beneficial to you. Although I can’t share videos from the class (yes we were allowed to take videos) they are for personal use only BUT Joe does have a You Tube video, see a link here. Where he shows you how to drape a sloper for a pair of pants and he explains it in detail so you can follow along, using your own measurements so you can create your own.

I also mentioned in the video that the big four Pattern Companies have fitting shell bodice patterns, but buyers beware they are sold by size individually so its not multi size like their patterns. So heads up and if you get them, make sure you are buying the correct one!

For Butterick it is B5627, Vogue is V1004, McCalls is M2718 and for Simplicity it is under their Amazing Fit Collections. You can also learn how to do a bodice sloper from the Sew It Academy (and I will say you can’t beat their monthly price to learn how to sew) OR you can also have Creative Costume Academy to make one for you or teach you how to draft your own. So lots of options for this!

Lastly, lots of great fall patterns in my September sewing pattern haul. At first glance they look ok but upon further inspection there are some great fall patterns like a trench coat, a pleated skirt, a knit dress with a shrug, and a big cut dress. The one that I couldn’t find is the pleated skirt pattern. I would have to find fabric for it, so I’m not in a hurry just yet.

Get the fall RTW Looks with Sewing Patterns

This blog post is all about sewing the high street trends also known as Ready to Wear with sewing patterns. I could go on and on about this because there is a lot of good stuff out there. Especially after another fashion week in New York City and the Met Gala that took place this year on the First Monday in September…. away from the usual first Monday in May.

So let’s begin with McCall’s and Simplicity Fall Patterns. They are brand spankin’ new! Well, if you can call those patterns two weeks old babies as of mid September 2021. But I have to be honest, I liked a handful of them at first glance and I passed up a few things, actually a LOT of things. Crafting a yoga mat or making curtains anyone… Not this girl! I usually have to go back two more times to really look at the line drawings and take it all in. That’s when the creative sewjo gets going… and then I spend a little time on Instagram and Pinterest (yes I do go down that pinning rabbit hole every now and then), but once I do that I get inspired, and I want to make all the things.

With that being said, let me tell you about some great fall sewing patterns and how you can use them to make those expensive Ready to Wear styles that I have no way to afford.

McCalls M8246 - This is a trench coat pattern by Melissa Watson from the Palmer Pletsch group. So its a fitting pattern. I will be honest when I saw the pattern cover I wasn’t thrilled…. a fitting pattern and it was really large on the model. So I passed it up. BUT as I glanced on Instagram Banana Republic posted a picture of this model in a deep fall red trench coat. It stopped me in my tracks. I love bold colors, especially for fall. I will say I went back to that trench coat pattern and its one to get. That coat at Banana its actually really well priced but I know I can make my own and fit it to my body.

McCall’s M8248 - I’m actually still surprised I like this pattern. This comes from someone who wore a pleated plaid skirt Monday thru Friday for Catholic School for quite a few years. So when Sezanne posted this picture of a model in a boho print pleated long skirt and a light sweater with fall boots… I was hooked! In comes this pleated skirt pattern in different lengths pattern. What is not to like about that? Seems like the stylists talked to each other for this one… and I’m here for it.

Hold on to your patterns because I got some more..

McCall’s 8099 and Vogue V1828 - They are jogger pants, and of course you can put your sneakers and go out for a run or you can make them in silk and take a page out of Tom Ford’s Net- a- porter silk jogger pants! You will need 2.5 yards of fabric, elastic and some aglets so you can make that draw string cord look a little nicer than usual but with some heals and a cute top you are ready to go AND be comfortable too.

Simplicity S8845 -I will say there are so many great styles at Banana Republic this time around that what I really want to do is go over there and purchase them all so I can keep sewing but alas…I better keep sewing because right now that’s not in the budget. What do I mean by that? Check out this gorgeous faux suede jacket. Swoooooon!!!! But at $498 I just can’t swing it, and I know from sewing leather its not for the faint of heart… one wrong needle mark and you have a hole that you can’t take back. But back to the pattern, Mimi G drafted this great jean jacket pattern but guess what? Nobody said we have to stick with denim fabric, we can make that in a heavy weight fabric and faux suede fits that category as far as I’m concerned. The similarity is spot on.

Simplicity S9381 -Talking about Mimi G, she sure knows what styles we should be wearing. This pattern has a jacket and a pair of pants… not loving the styling on the pants but I can quickly get over that, like REAL quick. Especially when the jacket is a Balmain Jacket that retails north of $1,000. Double bonus she always makes a sew along to go with her patterns. So you KNOW she is going to be making that jacket.

Lets keep going and I have some things for the fall weather folks that live on those southern states or down under in Australia… those places were there is no chill in the air right now and there will never be like back home in Puerto Rico. I haven’t forgotten about you. I got some good stuff here for you too.

McCall’s M7948 - Perfect pattern for a beginner, there are no buttons (well there is one but you can omit that with a hook and eye) and no zippers. What it does have are a gazillion gathers, ok I’m exaggerating. But look at these two looks from Ann Taylor and Banana Republic, a few small hacks to the neckline and you are in Ready to Wear business.

Simplicity S9326 - I love this pattern, you can get rid of that ruffle and sew up that slit if you are in the modest don't want to show no upper legs, its a great pattern. In comes this Ann Taylor style with this beautiful madras plaid print. I have to say S9326 is pretty spot on if you want that Ready to Wear Look.

One more to go!!! You getting inspired in sewing a few of those fall patterns? There is some good stuff out there, and I have to add that half the fun is finding the right fabric for it.

McCall’s M7971 - This is a great dress pattern with a slit on the side, and an semi open back. There are for sleeve variations and its actually a really nicely drafted dress, have you ever heard of Reformation? Its a great apparel online shop and they even have a few stores in major cities. They have some beautiful dresses but this one comes to mind and if you love this dress you will love M7971.

Sew Along for M7991 and Pattern Review

M7991 is a knit dress with a wrap top and a knit skirt, it is a great pattern if you are a beginner or just want a quick sew. I have now made it twice, and both times I have used 2 yards of fabric. This would be a great pattern to make with a knit print and it will need a belt (at least I feel like mine will) and a great pair of boots.

Pattern Sizing: Pattern has one size range from Small to XL. I cut an XL and had to take it in, so perhaps next time I will be cutting a size L and going from there!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes looks exactly like it does on the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the pattern, great pattern as its a quick sew and you can change the color of the neck band or sleeve cuffs.

Fabric Used: I have made this pattern twice, once for myself in a mustard knit and also in a white, gray and blue knit print. I’m linking them both.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn’t extend the bodice but I did add about three inches to the skirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, already have and yes would recommend it to others. Its a great pattern for the pattern stash.

2021 Summer Sewing Makes

I was a busy maker these past couple of months, I was able to cajole my teen daughter into taking pictures of my makes. Here is a round up of what I made, patterns I used and also links to fabrics that are still in stock at the time I wrote this post.

Closet Core Pietra Pants - This is a great indie pattern for any beginner or advance maker. The pattern features a high waist for a more polished aka. dressed up look but the back has a 2” wide elasticated band. So if you hit the picnic a little too hard this summer the pants stretch with you. I wore my pair of shorts just about every other day. Great pattern to have in your pattern stash so you can make it again and again. It comes in shorts, tapered and a wide leg version. Cannot say enough good things about this pattern.

B6677 - This dress pattern from Butterick is a good one. Quick easy make, I made it in this light blue Lyocell fabric. You can make it as a long dress or in my case a knee length dress.The pattern can be worn sleeve less or you can also add flounce for a sleeve like detail.

I’m going to call this my four yards of summer. I made quite a bit of things with these four yards of fabric from Zealouff Fabrics. It is a printed scuba, so perfect for dresses, shirts, skirts AND a swimsuit.

I did a mash up of the bottom for S9261 (can’t pass up on those pockets!) and the top v neck portion of M8058 for a sleeveless dress. I love this dress and the fabric makes it look dressed up and since it’s a scuba I can move, stretch and go about my day.

I also made S9273 for a quick make with 1 yard of fabric, M7386 a knee length skirt and a swimsuit using pattern B4532. So you can say I got my money’s worth with these four yards of fabric.

I also hopped on the wrap dress bandwagon with S8925. I used this blue knit print from Joann’s, and I believe the fabric is now completely sold out. It was part of their summer fabrics. It took me a while to fall in love with it but now seeing the finished dress and I absolutely love it. I love this pattern, you get four garments in this pattern. A dress, a top, a skirt and a pair of pants.

Let’s keep going down summer sewing memory lane! I tried to make myself a few tops this summer and I made two tops with pattern B6662. This pattern has gathering on the front with a drawstring. I love this pattern because not only can you make it in a cotton lawn fabric but also nicer fabrics such as a crepe. The pattern also has a few other views with a tie in front.

This next pattern is S8912, I actually used this pattern as a test for my orange dress that I talked about in my fall sewing plans video. I used some inexpensive fabric from Joann’s. But this turned out to be a great cover up for going to the pool.

Although I don’t love PDF patterns that doesn’t mean I don’t love Indie Designers. Believe me I do love those indie designers and if they have a tissue pattern in my size… Double bonus, I’m happy to pay so I can get a copy of it. Although Friday Pattern Company doesn’t have the Adrienne Blouse in my size, I bit the bullet and purchased their PDF pattern. Printed the 13 pages at home (I will say that’s my page limit) and do the cut / glue / zigzag puzzle thing. I will say although I’m late to this pattern’s party. I’m so glad I got it. It is a perfect top pattern and better yet I can see myself hacking this one into a midi length knit dress. Highly recommend it.

I also made M7974… it is not an easy pattern to make and I will be honest. This is more of an intermediate pattern. It does take some time to make it but its a GOOD one. It has three different types of sleeves, not counting the sleeveless version. It has different length of skirts and you can also add a collar if you wanted to. As I said, it is an intermediate pattern and a lot of the versions I have seen online most makers raise the neckline. So just keep that in mind. You can also use the bodice and add a peplum … and use it as a top. Great pattern!

I also made a By Hand London Anna dress using this beautiful Austin print from Dashwood Studios that I got off Minerva’s website. Although its a lovely pattern I don’t know if I’m in love with it. It is available as a printed tissue pattern. I think I may just modify a few things like the pleats at the bust and make them into gathers. I love this dress and its mostly because of the fabric I got from Minerva.

My last make for the summer was M7967. I did view C with the gathers at the bust but used the sleeves from M8058. I sure have gotten my money’s worth out of that M8058 pattern! The sleeves provided in the M7967 pattern have gathers and I rather not have extra gathers by my shoulders. The fabric I used is now sold out in stores and online. I mention in the video this is my summer pajamas dress but I absolutely love it. I put a slit on the side for a less pajamas look but it still looks like a pair of pajamas. Its a good thing as far as I’m concerned and I love this dress!

Fall Pattern and Fabric Sewing Plans

For so many years living in the Midwest I feel like Labor Day weekend hits and it marks the end of summer, with it the weather starts turning from one day to the next. You get that chill in the air and the days get a tad more windy. In other words, fall shows itself, and I will say I love fall and all fall things. Growing up in Puerto Rico you didn’t get any of the distinct seasons. You got summer and a little bit of spring when the trees looked a little but more full and that was the extent of the seasons. But living in the US and in the Midwest you get the full four seasons spectrum. Which I gotta say its great because I love to sew clothes.

So here are my sewing plans for the next two months or so.

M7967 - Calling this my last summer make (one more!). I bought plenty of this double brushed knit fabric from Joann’s, I made myself an Adrienne Blouse by Friday Pattern Company. Great pattern by the way quick to make with 1.5 yards but I wanted to make another knit dress and I was able to get another 2 yards. I believe this fabric is completely sold out. I’m doing view C with the gathering at the front from M7967 and using the sleeves from M8058.

Adrienne Blouse from The Friday Pattern Company - One of the few indie patterns I’ve tried this year.

M7991 - This is a wrap dress, its not a new pattern but its great for a beginner. I think it’s got like four pieces, but I’m using this double brushed mineral yellow knit. I’ll pair this with a pair of knee high boots, a belt and I’m ready to go.

M7893- Another wrap dress, its a slightly different version from the one above but I got this geometric print at Joann’s from their fall collection (if we can call it that) and I thought… why not! I tend to go for these designs as I don’t want to deal with matching stripes or big designs.

M8083 - I started working on this pattern about three months ago, I had picked a crinkle rayon and it was all working well until I added the bottom portion and the waist became a dropped waist from the stretch and weight of the fabric, so I had to abandon that project. So I’m coming back at it now with a satin backed crepe. I’m using the crepe side. As much as I would love to have a satin dress, I may get weird looks at the grocery store. But I do love the color on this satin! If I can find more of this fabric I can see myself making a bias skirt with the satin side.

V1835 - I talked about this one in my pattern haul last week, and I love the asymmetrical neckline and this one is perfect to lounge around my home on the weekends. I got this python print months ago. Don’t ask me why I got it. I’m not a python print person but I figured I might as well use it because this I can rock at home on a Sunday morning.

S8551 - I will be hacking this pattern. These sleeves are a big fat no as shown on the battery with the bell shaped or the balloon on view D. I may go for a 3/4 length sleeve and do a cuff on them along with elongating the skirt with a side slit. I’ll be using this Everly Brick Twill from Melanated Fabrics. It is now sold out but they do have it in Everly Twill red. It is really really really soft. If I have enough fabric I’ll be making a top with it too.

M5579 OR S9041 - SO I also have this Troy Bluestone fabric from Melanated. My preference is to do S9041 but I do wonder if I have enough fabric for this pattern or if I do M5579. I guess I won’t know until I cut all the pattern pieces and see if it all fits, Plus it also has a pattern so I have to make sure that its placed in the right place, that right there is why you want tissue paper for your patterns! M5579 is no longer in print and you will have to find it on Etsy.

B6331 - It is a unlined raglan sleeve trench jacket. I have plenty of fun bias tape from a dress that I made a few weeks ago with a Dashwood Studio fabric I purchased from Minerva and I also have cerulean blue sateen from Joann’s. It will be a slow sew because putting in bias tape will take a while but I think once I’m done I’ll be happy with the end result. The bias tape gives it a fun vibe inside the jacket but I can wear it both in the fall and spring. This pattern is no longer in print, you will have to find this one on Etsy or Amazon.

M7470- One of those Palmer Pletsch tissue patterns, I have this beautiful chocolate brown faux suede fabric. Since its suede I need to take it slow because once you puncture it there is no going back, so I will most definitely make a toile on this to check fit and pretty much practice the pattern so when i sew the suede its much easier the second time around. This pattern with this fabric feels a little reminiscent of classic Halston dresses. This pattern is no longer in print under McCalls but look them under a Butterick pattern number in the near future as Palmer Pletsch has been reissuing their patterns under Butterick with a different pattern number I don’t see it within the new fall patterns just released but I’m sure this one will be coming up soon. If not there is always Etsy or amazon.

So those are my plans, that’s quite a bit. Let me know what are you sewing for fall.

August 2021 Pattern Haul

We are less than a month away from the fat lady singing summer is officially over, and you know that on Labor Day weekend come that Monday the air just feels cold. So I’m already getting ready for fall and Butterick’s fall patterns did not disappoint. Now that we are on our way to fall I’m also going to try and do more woven fabrics which means do a lot more fitting. Hence my loot with Palmer / Pletsch fitting patterns. I got them all, or at least I think I did. Til the fat lady sings… lets keep enjoying the nice weather, summer dresses, shorts and great outdoors.

Different types of sewing stitches

Stitch this, stitch that… stay stitch, under stitch, straight stitch, lock in those stitches. WHAT does it all mean? I’m going to tell you its all a big mumbo jumbo when you are a beginner sewist. BUT I assure you once you know them, it all makes sense and I will also show you in the video above why you need them and why you need to use the right one.

So lets start out with STAY STITCHING

Often overlooked and many people think “I’m just gonna skip that” but don’t skip stay stitching. Plus it just takes like a minute or two and it will save you a big headache down the sewing road. Stay stitching is a stitch we use when we don’t want our fabric to stretch. Its mostly used on necklines and armholes because they are curved, and since this fabric is curved its cut across the bias grain on the fabric... which means its going to stretch SO we do stay stitching so it doesn’t stretch (hence stay stitch, so the fabric stays on its original state and it doesn’t stretch)... It is a straight stitch through ONE layer of fabric 1/2” away from the raw edge. The Big Four usually give you these little itty bitty arrows showing direction. I can NEVER see which way they go so…Try to start at the center of a neckline and work your way out, BUT if you forget to do this its not the end of the world.

Next up is ZIG ZAG STITCH

Zig Zag Stitch Is used for two things.... Usually to sew knit garments. When I say don’t forget to use a zig zag stitch its because knits need to stretch when you wear them. So the only way to do this is to use a zig zag stitch OR as I like to call it a narrow zig zag stitch. Some machines have a lighting bolt stitch and some don’t. If you don’t have this on your machine all you have to do is set your machine to a narrow stitch width.

You can also use a zig zag stitch to finish off a seam to prevent the fabric from fraying.

STRAIGHT STITCH

This is your usual straight stitch for most commercial patterns this is done 5/8” or 1.5 cm away from the raw edge. This is a permanent stitch so we always lock it on our machine. So we stitch three stitches and then we back stitch three stitches so we lock them in so the threads don’t unravel. We straight stitch the length we need and then when we get to the end, we yet again we back stitch so we lock those stitches in. Straight stitches have ZERO width and usually are 3 to 3.5 mm in length on your sewing machine.

BASTING STITCH

We baste when we need a temporary straight stitch used to hold layers of fabric together until we final stitch it in place. Key word with basting stitches is temporary. When you baste, you do NOT lock in your stitches at the start or at the end. Remember these are temporary stitches so we want to easily remove them later on. SO we don’t lock them in. We also use the longest running stitch in our sewing machine. In my case it’s a length of 5mm or it can be a 4mm on other sewing machines. You just want to hold the two pieces of fabric together.

UNDERSTITCH

It is a straight stitched (so you lock it in at the start and at the end) used to stop a facing or a lining from peeking out from the inside of a garment. When attaching a facing or a lining we under stitch the facing or lining to the seam allowance. You usually stitch 1/8” away from the seam line. I must admit I have a fascination with under stitching. Don’t ask me why, I do love to under stitch because it gives your garment a much nicer finish.

EASE STITCH

We ease stitch when we need to ease a sleeve into the arm hole. Very similar to gathering stitches…So usually we do TWO rows of long running stitches. So again your longest running straight stitch on your machine. In my case the longest running stitch is 5mm and I leave the threads long on my stitching because I want to pull on those stitches later on to ease the fabric. One row is usually done 1/4” away from the raw edge and the next one is done 1/2” away from the raw edge. These are temporary stitches hence why you do not lock them in.

SLIP STITCH

Slip stich means you grab needle and thread and you stitch by hand. Yeah I know, its a bummer but every know and then its time to put some music and go at it the ol’ fashioned way with needle and thread. It is also called a ladder stitch. We usually use this to close a seam that perhaps your machine can’t do.

TOP STITCHING

This is decorative stitch, some times its done 1/4 from the seam OR stitch were it is indicated in the instructions. This is a straight stitch! If you have a top stitching presser foot or an edge stitch presser foot, I strongly suggest you use it. It makes a HUGE difference, if you don’t have one, you can always use washi tape as a guide OR the presser foot.

Alright, I hope this video and blog was a little helpful for you and you can use it as a reference. The more you continue sewing you will eventually know which stitch you have to use because you will see them called out again and again. Especially in the the BIG four patterns that always list their types of stitches in the glossary.

Sew Along for McCalls 8219

I still had 1.5 yards of fabric after making McCalls 8215 and since I’ve been trying to use some of the fabric from the fabric stash I though hey I have this pattern why not make a top. This sew along video and pattern review is for view C.

Pattern Description: M8219 is a easy knit top with three different views and three different sleeve combinations. It is a really flattering pattern and easy to sew.

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 22 and as always I have to adjust the bodice for length.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes looks exactly like it does on the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the pattern, I can see myself making it again in different knits. Plus its a great pattern as I said it is really flattering.

Fabric Used: I used that amazing cerulean blue double brushed knit fabric. Between making M8215, and some other garments with this fabric I’m pretty sure I must have purchased the 8 yards the fabric store had. It is so soft, washes well and drama free to sew. They have this fabric in so many colors.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I extended the top bodice piece by 3 inches and took off 3 inches of the lower pattern piece to make sure the criss cross hit below the bust line but that ended giving me way too much cleavage so I adjusted the fabric pieces so they hit were they need to end. I also added 1/2” to the bicep sleeve adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will most likely make this pattern again. Super easy plus 1.5 yards of fabric can’t beat that.

Sew Along for Butterick 6684

I wanted to make something easy, quick and that I could use some leftover fabric that I had in the fabric stash. After last week’s 4.5 yards fabric hogger I had to redeem myself so in comes Butterick 6684, plus I had mentioned in one of my pattern hauls that I’m in dire need of tops. This one is one that I can dress up for sure with a skirt or a long pair of slacks. I don’t quite know if I will be wearing this one to be out and about.

Pattern Description: B6684 is a pull over top with different sleeves and necklines.

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 22 but I always adjust my bodice once I get it to the point were I can adjust and take things in. I’m sure I can usually go down one to two sizes if I cut exactly the pattern size but I rather do it this way. It gives me some fabric room to play with it.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it was pretty darn close.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions very easy to follow. Even when I made some modifications to the neckline.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the pattern, it may be a tad too conservative for me and the ties for the collar may be an inch or two too long but its a beautiful top.

Fabric Used: I used a pale pink Rayon. It drapes beautifully and it feels like a soft linen. Plus it was a leftover from another top, so thats what I used.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I took in the bodice at least 1” on both sides by the waistline. I also wanted longer sleeves for view A but I wanted that neckline as I rather play with were I tie the ties either closer to my neck and also be able to make a low bow towards the bottom of the V neckline. So I used the pattern pieces from the pattern piece for view A and drew the V neckline on it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I don’t think I will sew it again. its a great pattern and really easy to make, but I don’t know if its the color of the fabric or of the length of the ties, but it feels a little too conservative for my style.

Sew Along for McCalls 8215

If last week was a quick make with 1.5 yards of fabric, M8215 is a fabric hogger! I was able to make mine with 4.5 yards of fabric because I went with a midi length. But If you want to do the maxi length you could be looking at 6 to 7 yards of fabric, and with that much fabric you need a fabric sale at rock bottom prices.

Pattern Description: M8215 is a fit and flare knit dress. I made view B with a round neckline, midi length and a side slit. View A has a sweetheart neckline and View C is a maxi length. I couldn’t find enough fabric in the cerulean blue on the front cover. I actually have TWO other dresses in this fabric color so I suspect that I bought everything that was available in the fabric store.

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 22 but I could have gone with a size 20 because I wanted zero ease on this top and I had to adjust the bodice and take it in on the sides and the shoulders.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes down to the fabric!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions are easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The instructions were pretty easy, however the neckband and the armbands either have a typo on the size or the wrong pattern piece was printed. This pattern comes in three different size ranges. I got the middle size range and the neckband / armband printed was for the largest range.

Fabric Used: I used a double brushed cerulean blue knit from Joann’s, Super soft fabric and perfect for this pattern. I liked the cover so much I got the same fabric, and in my own defense I got this fabric color for two other dresses and a sateen jacket!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I took in the bodice at least 1” on both sides and I also had to take in the skirt were the middle panel meets so it fitted the new bodice measurements. I also used a 1/2” elastic vs. the 3/8” elastic they call for in the pattern. There is tons of fabric and the elastic helps it not to stretch. I also stabilized the shoulders. When you have this much fabric its the way to go because it starts getting heavy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I don’t think I will sew it again. It’s a great pattern but the amount of fabric it requires can be somewhat cost prohibitive unless you find one heck of a fabric sale (and I mean doorbuster discount, take-it-from-my-hands-sale") and at 4.5 to 6 yards without a sale… it can be costly to make and there are plenty of other dresses or makes you can do with that much fabric.

McCalls 8058 Sew Along and Pattern Review

This dress is a quick make and perfect to make when you have at least two yards of fabrics, although you can get away with making this with 1 1/2” yards of knit fabric. It is also a great pattern for a beginner.

Pattern Description: M8058 is a fitted knit dress with different neckline variations and also different sleeve lengths. Of course, you can also change the length of the hem.

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 20 view E with three quarter length sleeves.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes it looked like the picture on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instruction are easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The instructions were pretty easy, and I’ve made it numerous times.

Fabric Used: I used a double brushed knit yellow knit from Joann’s fabrics. It also comes in black, sage green and a cerulean blue, Super soft fabric and perfect for this pattern.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No alterations needed!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I have sewn it twice now and I will continue using this pattern. Its a good one for the pattern stash. I’m sure it has been re-issued numerous times under different numbers.

June and July 2021 Pattern Haul

A few of my patterns I got on all those great sales at Joann’s. Lots of jackets and of course a swimsuit pattern.

Sew Along for S9267

Love this skirt, I used a linen fabric and a cotton lawn for the facings.

Pattern Description: S9267, which is described as a skirt in three different lengths, I made view B. The skirt has a buttoned front and slash pockets.

Pattern Sizing: Pattern is sized from 6 to 14 and 16 to 24. I made a size 22.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes it looked like the picture on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The instructions were pretty easy, this is a standard button front skirt. The possibilities are endless with a skirt like this. You can make it in so many different fabrics or go with an even longer length for a maxi skirt look.

Fabric Used: I used a Botton weight linen and I also used some left over Halloween tarot cards fabric for the waistband facings and pocket facings.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I took it in about 1 inch on the sides and then I tapered it so it doesn’t flare as much. I also elongated the pleats on the front and back. The pleats on the pattern are 2” long, mine are 6” long as I wanted the skirt to be a tad more fitted.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will for sure sew this one again and I would recommend it to others. This is a relatively quick sew.

Summer Pattern Haul 2021

The weather in the Midwest has been as usual, fifty’s one day, cloud and nasty wind the next, 80’s the next day and so on. I’m okay with that because I take that as a sign that the weather gods are waiting for me to get my sewing act together and get ready for the summer hot weather. I felt that urgency to get cracking on my summer sewing on that one 80’s degree day.

Sure enough this month of May has been the month were a lot of indie pattern makers have dropped their new patterns and McCalls along with Butterick released their summer patterns. Let me show you what I got…

M8217 - Cropped top in three lengths. I’ll be making view C without that scalloped edged. You can hack that pattern into a dress.

M8036 - Sasha McCalls, did you all noticed that all the names of the patterns on the website are gone and McCalls changed their logo too? It doesnt matter does it? We are still gonna get those patterns. M8036 is a wrap front dress View A has my name all over it with that flounce.

M8195 -Picnic flare dress with a sweetheart bodice. I already know I’ll have to make some modifications to this dress, mostly those sleeves and along the bodice but this dress has some real potential. It looks like it was made in linen on the website but I suspect seersucker or Gingham might be the way to go. Again summer, nobody likes being hot in summer.

M8193 - Gathered tiered pinafore dress, I must say I wore plenty of pinafore dresses in my middle school years, this dress looks like a winner in my book. It doesn’t look like a pinafore dress at all. You can play with those gathered tiered and perhaps with some ombre fabric. It comes in a short or midi length.

M8200 - Shirred Top! Enough said, this top has gathers in the front and a shirred back. I will most likely change the sleeves but it looks like a fun top. Perfect with my newly made Pietra Shorts from Close Core Patterns.

M8211 - Fit and flare dress. It has an elasticated neckline and ruffle sleeves. The picture on the website has this beautiful Swiss dot fabric, another perfect summer fabric because it breaths so well. This dress also has a few tiered panels if you want to make it into a tiered dress and off the shoulders sleeves if you want something different. Can’t wait to make this one.

M8219 - Surplice knit top. It has a cropped top version (not happening for me ) but the longer bodice versions are perfect.

M8215- This dress is a classic, absolutely beautiful and also an absolute fabric hot at 4 to 7 yards of fabric depending on the length. But with all that being said I want to make it. I just need to find one heck of a sale of knit fabric to make this one!

B6661- The is an older pattern from Butterick by Lisette. I love the crisscross back on this pattern I just have to find the right fabric for it.

S8925 - We all love a good wrap dress and this pattern not only has a wrap dress, a wrap top, but also a skirt and leggings pattern included.

S8928 -Swimsuit and craftan pattern by Cynthia Rowley. I don’t know if I’ll even be able to wear a swimsuit since there are restrictions in place by the local pool but here’s hoping that by end of June or July we can get out there.

That’s it for me and my summer picks. Happy Sewing!

Sew Along and Pattern Review for M8217

but a few things to note…. there are no finished garment measurements anywhere. Not on the back of the envelope and not on the tissue paper itself. Which is such a pet peeve of mine. Why make me work even more when I already have to check measurements to make adjustments.

Pattern Description: M8217 is part of McCall’s new 2021 Summer Collection, its a great easy sewing pattern. It took me all of two hours to put together,

Pattern Sizing: Pattern is sized XS to XXL. I made a size XL and I still had to take it in 1.5” on each side. I made view C without the scalloped lace, but a few things to note... there are no finished garment measurements anywhere. Not on the back of the envelope and not on the tissue paper itself. Which is such a pet peeve of mine. Why make me work even more when I already have to check measurements to make adjustments. I even called McCalls to get the actual measurements for this and never heard back which is actually not like them. They are usually quite responsive, so I will check again and circle back if I get them.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes it looked like the picture on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The instructions are fairly easy, but I would really like to get those finished garment measurements somewhere on the pattern since you have to cut each piece individually per size. So you end up having to check each piece to select which one you need! Seems like a lot of unnecessary work.

Fabric Used: I used a Cotton Lawn Tana from We are the Fabric Store in New Zealand. They ship and its actually very very reasonably priced. It showed up at my doorstep quicker than if I would have gotten something from the US. I also got this last year and I’m surprised they still have it in stock. Its a dream to sew with, super soft, and it breaths beautifully. Perfect for summer. I get no $$ from this, I just love their fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I took it in 1.5 inches on both sides and I had to also elongate the bodice 2 inches. But I always do for the Big $ patterns.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Its a great pattern, but I don’t think this is something I will make again. It’s a great piece to have and perfect for a hot summer day.

Do’s and Dont’s of Pattern Testing

Ah yes, pattern testing! It’s that time of the year, although it seems like it goes on year round these days. Many indie pattern designers put out a call for pattern testers. It seems like you see many more so of them doing this for bigger sizing, which I think its absolutely wonderful they are being more size inclusive and providing bigger sizing. As someone who constantly has to grade out patterns one or two sizes from the largest size provided it helps tremendously. We all have to make adjustments but when you have to grade out and then make adjustments… that’s when you start thinking twice if you want to invest in a pattern.

I have been lucky enough to test patterns and I will have to say there are pros and cons to pattern testing. If you never have, I urge you to at least try it just once.

Not going to sugar coat it, pattern testing is work and there is some monetary investment on your part that you will have to put in too (fabric, notions, thread…. yeah none of that is free right?!). Some companies are able to give you a stipend for your time, but a lot of companies cannot afford to do this. Many of them are a one-woman show, so funds are limited and at times they just can’t afford to do this. So they do a call for volunteers to test their upcoming patterns, which its genius!

I recently tested two patterns for the same company , from what I’ve seen designers put a considerable amount of time to get these patterns out to testers and continue making changes on them til the patterns are released.

Here are some do’s and don’ts of pattern testing.

Answer the questions and give constructive feedback. They have all sorts of questions on fit, sizing, printing issues, even asking if there are typos on the instructions. Answer them! Go into specifics and let them know about any issues you may have on the construction of the garment or perhaps if something is even tricky to put together. Give them feedback, but remember to do it in a constructive way.

Get the testing done by the deadline and don’t flake out. I’m sure they are eager to find out what changes need to be done so they can make updates and get closer to releasing that pattern. If you can’t do it by the date they require let them know right away or don’t even agree to do the testing if you know you can’t do it. They send it out in a range of sizes so it can be tested in a multitude of sizes. So if you are too busy, life gets in the way…. politely let them know so they can look for a replacement if needed.

You may have to make adjustments or grade between sizes. You are testing a pattern but you may still have to do adjustments or grade between sizes. If you don’t, you are one of the lucky ones. But for the most part, you will have to do so like any other pattern.

Follow the instructions. They sent them to you for a reason. You are testing a pattern. If they a tricky, hard to understand or perhaps you may find an easier way… let the pattern designer know.

Send pictures. Some pattern designers want them to be pretty, well lit and instagram ready. Others don’t care they just want to see fit. Include pictures in your pattern review. Pictures will help the designer gather the construction of the garment and also fit. If they want pretty pictures make an effort and take them. Send them those pictures, they need them!

Don’t share the pattern or leak any information before the designer releases the pattern. If you don’t have permission to share the images or information on the pattern don’t take away the designer’s thunder. It may be a few weeks or even months before you can post images to social media so don’t jump the gun. Respect the pattern designers timeline…. or you can and will be banned!

Some last words….

I don’t care for cutting and gluing 50 some pieces of paper (all that paper, ink, time, it adds up!) but I realize others don’t mind it. If you are looking for a printer that will print your A0 patterns I highly recommend PDFplotting.com for getting your pdf files printed if you are in the US. Not an ad, I have tried them numerous times and I highly recommend them.

Me Made May

Here comes May and with it comes what are we all going to make for Me Made May. I don’t want to get ahead of myself, It will be a busy month with the kids finishing school, trying to figure out what lies ahead for the rest of the summer since summer camps and outdoor pools

are still closed, But with all that being said here are what I’m hoping and striving to make for the month of May.

Pietra Shorts - I need a new pair of pants and shorts. There is no denying I need a pair of shorts and its time to make them, I hear lots of people raving about these so… its time to make them.

Orange Linen Dress - I talked about this on my April Pattern Haul. I used to have this amazing orange linen dress from Gap. I loved that dress, super comfortable, the linen made it breathable thru the hot days and it was a way to looked dressed up but not feel dressed up. I’ll be using Simplicity 8888 it is a hacking dress and perfect for what I want to do. I have to do some modifications, but this pattern is a hacking pattern so ripe for it.

Knit or Button down skirt - I want to make myself a few skirts that I can wear with t-shirts and go about my day. Thinking I may look into S9267, another option is an easy knit skirt like M6966 or perhaps both.

Tops - For sure what a couple of tops like Burda 6121, McCalls just came out with a similar pattern which is more of a crop top, so Burda it is. But perhaps I may look into one of their new tops M8200 which can be made with cotton blends or the Adrienne Blouse by the Friday Pattern Company which is all about knits.

Wish me luck, feels like a lot but they would all make great additions to the wardrobe, and its sorely needed.

April 2021 Pattern Haul

We’ve had all sorts of weather this week in the Midwest. Snow… check, mid 80’s check, rain, cloudy and cold… check, check, check. We have had it ALL! Although I was ready for the rain and cold, because it’s been like that for the last couple of months. I was NOT prepared for yesterday’s weather with mid 80s and just pure heat. Oh and in the evening it got down to 49 degrees. Which reminded me that I need to switch sewing gears and rapidito as we say in Spanish. Forget sewing Moto jackets, long sleeve shirts and scarves. That was last month. I need to start sewing tops, shorts and dresses in lightweight fabrics because summer is coming and the ball of sun will shine brighter and hotter before I know it.

Here are some of the patterns I’m on April 2020 Pattern Haul. As always wait for the sale, commercial and indie patterns for that matter can be expensive but at a great price when they are on sale.

S9261 - Mimi G Style Knit’s dress in two lengths. Knit dress, summer and she will post a sew along… I’m all over that. I can see making this in a dark navy blue knit if I want to dress it up or doing a fun print if I want to wear this in a more casual setting.

S1616 - Knit or Woven skirts in two different lengths. I used to have this skirt from Old Navy. Every year they would sell them at the start of summer and they would always without fail sell out. Mine kicked the bucket long ago. I haven’t been able to find another one. I will be making one of these for myself. I suspect once my daughter sees it she will want one too.

M8178 - Pullover dress with dropped shoulders and godet skirt. I saw Brittany J Jones make one of these, I will be making one myself. Trying to find the right yellow fabric. Yellow and orange apparel fabrics (in the right hue) are hard to find. But I feel like this dress deserves a sew along, especially how to sew those godets.

S8888 - Simplicity Hacking Pattern, a pattern with a multitude of styles that you can hack and make it your own. You can make it in a. wide array of different fabrics. I’m trying to recreate my “orange dress” that I wore many summers ago. It was so comfortable. Great with a pair of sandals.

S9297 - This is a Patterns by Gertie, it is a fitted dress and it has boning. View B has fringe fabric but view A is perfect. I must say, either I’m late to the party or this pattern was re-released with the last round of summer patterns for Simplicity. I remember having this on my “patterns-to-get” list and I could never find it. Somehow there it was the last time I looked thru the pattern drawers, so I snatched. But lets face it. I’m not going anywhere exciting right now, so I’m going to hold off on making this one for a while.

Burda 6143 - They call it a figure slimming dress with short or 3/4 length sleeves. It has frills along the neckline or a front slit. Its perfect for summer. It calls for cotton blends, woven fabrics but I’m pretty sure you can make this in a stable knit.

Burda 6413 - Knee length or long dress with sleeveless or long sleeves. It has a slight gathers at the neckline and slits on the sides. The waist is elasticated. Another great dress to wear for the summer. Again, looking for fabric for these. The pattern calls for a viscose rayon, crepe or a silk. Yes to the first one, no to the other two!

Burda 6121 - Tops with a shoulder tie. You can also make this into a pinafore dress. I see many possibilities with this pattern. MANY! The pattern calls for cotton fabrics blends, viscose rayon, silk….. Im going to go rogue and do stretch linen. I think it will be perfect for this.

Butterick 6662 - Semi fitted tops with a v-neck (thank goodness for v necks!) front casing with a drawstring or a tie front. Perfect to wear with a pair of shorts or white lightweight jeans.

Butterick 4685 - Ladies gathered raglan sleeve tops. Lightweight linen here I come!

New Look 6618 - Easy to sew Just for knits Dress.

New Look 6644 - Cargo pants that I can rolled the cuffs

Pietra Pants and Shorts - This is from Indie pattern company Closet Core Patterns. Many people rave about this pattern. I bought it last November when they were having a large sale for the year. Its been sitting on my pattern stash for quite some time now but many people rave about it. I need shorts so this is it. it has a flat front, slanted hip pickets and an elastic back.

Would love to hear about your favorite summer pattern. Easy to sew, with lightweight fabrics, and that can be dressed down or up.

Sew Along and Pattern Review for M8154 Bowery McCalls

A Few weeks ago on my pattern haul for March 2021 video I mentioned that I had gotten a few jumpsuit patterns. I was eager to work on Bowery McCalls which is pattern number M8154 from McCalls. It has a really fun casing detail by the shoulders and I was going to make it. Alas, here is a sew along for it.

Pattern Description: M8154 or Bowery McCalls is a jumpsuit pattern with three different variations and two different sleeves. One of the designs, View C, has a casing at the shoulders which gives it a subtle shoulder gathering, You can also make this pattern into a romper.

Pattern Sizing: Pattern is sized XS to XXL. I made a size XL and I still had to take it in 1.5” on each side. I made view C.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes it looked like the picture on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It is a nicely drafted pattern, the instructions are fairly easy. Would have loved some other pocket options for this one and perhaps some belt loop carriers. I will most likely modify my version and add them after the fact. I just need to dig out some other pattern with these, measure and sew them in.

Fabric Used: I used a light weight denim fabric. It has a slight sheen but its perfect for this as it has a subtle drape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to do no pattern alterations on this, besides grading from one size to the other and take it in I didn't have to do some of the usual alterations I usually have to do.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Its a great pattern, I can see myself making a perhaps changing the front buttons to a zipper and adding in some fun pockets on some top stitching on View C. But other than that, it’s a great pattern, and nicely drafted. I would sew it again and recommend it to others.